I don’t often think about Balthazar Sanchez, but I did today. Who, Balthazar Sanchez? Why, none other than (reputedly) the first man to import chocolate to England. From 1995 to 2011 my mum used to live in Tottenham, not very far from the Bruce Castle Museum and on more than one occasion I’d take my kids for a walk along the road to take a look and play in the park. The museum is housed in a building that was once the home of the Royal Mail supremo Rowland Hill, the man who introduced pre-paid postage, and it has a courtyard which houses several pillar boxes. In the same area there was a large stone plaque, bearing the name Balthazar Sanchez. I did a little research and found out that he was a Spanish confectioner from Jerez who came to England in the wake of Mary Tudor’s husband Philip II of Spain, liked it and stayed. I believe he is the first person we know to have introduced chocolate to Britain. He seems to have done rather well. After settling down in Tottenham he endowed almshouses there and the stone plaque in the museum was removed from them when they were demolished.
Chocolate. The Aztecs gave us chocolate while we Europeans
gave them smallpox. Not exactly in the spirit of fair trade. (Incidentally,
research has shown that it’s an urban myth that the Spanish conquistadores
introduced syphilis to the Americas – apparently it had been present for
thousands of years prior to their arrival.)
I found myself thinking about good old Balfie through a rather
circuitous process. For Christmas my brother gave me a Princess Mary tin. In
brief, in 1914 Princess Mary, the daughter of King George V and Queen Mary
wanted to send a gift to all the British soldiers serving on the Western Front.
She did not have the funds to do so but it was such a good idea that members of
the public were invited to subscribe to the Princess Mary Gift Fund which
proved so successful that eventually all members of the British and Empire
Armed services received the gift, although it was 1920 by the time the last was
given out. Many of these tins still exist. I have written in more detail about
this in an article for a future edition of PASS, the Mastermind Club magazine
and if you’re interested you can read more on this page from my other blog –
click the link.
Through my Mary tin, I became interested in what I guess
might have inspired the Princess Mary Tin. After the start of the second Boer
War in 1899, Queen Victoria decided to send a gift to each soldier, NCO and
officer serving in the British and Empire armies in South Africa. She decided
to send each man a tin of chocolate. Victoria wanted to make sure that her boys
knew she was sending them top quality merch and she was obviously a Cadbury fan
since she commissioned Cadbury to make the gifts. This proved a tricky problem
for Cadbury, though. The Cadbury family were quakers. They did not want to
profit from war, nor to be seen to be doing so. However, such a patriotic
commission from the Mother of the Empire was difficult to refuse. The solution
was that Cadbury invited Rowntree and Fry, both also quaker-owned, to share the
commission. Each firm would donate the chocolate within the tin. Victoria would
pay for the cost of making the tins and sending them to South Africa. She
wanted each company to put their name on their tins, but they refused and
compromised by stamping their names on the chocolate within the tins.
The tins all followed the same design by Barclay and Fry of
Southwark. However, each chocolate company used their own manufacturer for the
tins. This means that even though they used the same design there are
differences between them and it is possible to tell them apart even if the
chocolate inside is long gone. I’ve collected a Rowntree’s tin and a Cadbury’s
tin and I’m currently in the market for a Fry’s tin.

Top - Rowntree's tin
Bottom - Cadbury's tin. Wanted - a Fry's tin
I must admit that it does strike me that amongst the three
companies, Fry’s seemed to me to be the runt of the litter – small fry if you
should excuse the pun. When I was growing up, at the height of my chocolate
eating days, it seemed as if Cadbury’s, with the mighty Dairy Milk and
associated products and Rowntree’s with their wide range of confectionary
dominated the market, along with the ubiquitous Mars company. Fry’s, well, what
did they have? The dreadfully boring Fry’s Chocolate Cream and Fry’s Turkish
Delight were all I ever noticed.
Yet actually, a little research shows that Fry’s were very
much a big name in the 19th century. Fry’s are credited with
marketing the very first solid chocolate bar. They were responsible for several
firsts in the 19th century. They also created the first chocolate
easter egg. The afore mentioned Chocolate Cream, still available today, is
believed to be the world’s oldest surviving chocolate bar brand. Although they
merged with Cadbury’s in 1919, forming the British Chocolate and Cocoa Company,
they maintained their operational independence until the end of the 1960s. It
was Fry’s who first made Crunchie although this was taken under the Cadbury
brand by the time I was eating them.
You know, when I first started attending the Thursday night
quiz in the Aberavon Rugby Club, all of the other regular setters and question
masters were a minimum of 20 years older than me, and it wasn’t unusual for
them to ask questions about things which were from their own youth. I remember
one QM asking a question about Fry’s Five Boys Chocolate. Now, a quick google
reveals that Five Boys chocolate was discontinued in 1976. Well, I remember
1976 and quite a few years before it for that matter, but I don’t remember Five
Boys chocolate. If, like me, you don’t recall the product, the unusual name
came from the branding. The wrapper of the bar showed not five different boys
but 5 photographs of the same boy, wearing a sailor suit going through the 5
emotions one feels when anticipating then enjoying a bar of Fry’s chocolate.
For the record these were Desperation – Pacification – Expectation –
Acclamation and Realisation. Not so much the five stages of grief as the five
stages of throwing a tantrum to get a sweetie. Don’t knock it.
Well, marketing and branding in 1902 when the bar was
launched wasn’t what it is today. Mind you, it didn’t do too badly, since I’ve
heard the bar described as the most recognised chocolate bar in the world in
the middle of the 20th century. Incidentally the young shaver on the
wrapper was a real boy called Lindsay Poulton whose father and grandfather took
the photos for which Frys paid £200 in 1902. For the record that’s the
equivalent of almost £16,000 today – a nice little earner.
I have heard it said that the philanthropist, prison
reformer and former tenant of the £5 note, Elizabeth Fry was a member of the
family, and I’ve also heard it said that she was no relation. The truth
actually lies somewhere between. Her maiden name was Gurney and she married
Joseph Fry, who was a cousin of the chocolate making family.
The business began
in Bristol in 1761, becoming J.S.Fry and Sons in 1822. Compared with this
Cadbury began in 1824 while new kids on the block Rowntree didn’t begin until
1862.
So, does knowing all this make me feel more determined to
get hold of a Fry’s Boer War tin? I dunno, but it certainly doesn’t make me any
less!
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